what to eat in delhi

This popular dessert pairs kulfi Indias dense and creamy milkbased (eggless) ice cream with faluda or clear vermicelli noodles usually dipped in rose water. Like its distant cousin rabri faluda it seems an odd combo to foreign eyes but it somehow works.

Kulle is fruit chaat alleged to have been invented in Delhi and a brilliant interpretation of the genre in our opinion especially on a hot summers day. Whats better than fresh fruit and vegetables skins peeled of course hollowed out and topped with salty tangy spices chickpeas and jewelbright pomegranate seeds? Just about nothing. Finally an Indian street chaat thats completely guiltfree.

The smoothielike counter to all those heavy curries lassi is a creamy frothy yogurtbased drink from Punjab. There are many varieties but most will fall under either sweet or salted the former is curd blended or whisked with sugar (and/or fruit) the latter with salt and often other spices like cumin and/or cardamom seeds. Traditionally lassi is served in a disposable clay cup called a kulhar and extra malai or clotted cream is spooned on top before serving. In Delhi lassis are especially popular in the summer when they provide a cool soothing balance to most everything else being consumed.

Ah the Indian mango. If youre here during the springsummer season the payoff for enduring the oftenoppressive heat is access to the best mangoes in the world. Lots of them sold on practically every street; encased in a thick travelerfriendly skin dripping with sweet juices and bursting with pure mango flavor. There are countless varieties of mango here all with exoticsounding names safeda langda dussehri chausa fazli rataul Alphonso and all wed hazard a guess delicious. What you find will depend on where you go and when youre here. But equally wonderful is the seasons byproduct: all the foods that appear on the Delhi scene featuring the versatile mango. Elsewhere we discuss the mango lassi and mango kulfi; here well focus on the more unexpected mango sandwich and thick mango shake.

Masala chai is the milky spiced black tea thats found all over India thanks to the teacrazy British who set up plantations for export back in the 1830s and later worked to popularize tea drinking in India via the Indian Tea Association. Like much of north India and beyond tea stalls or chaiwallas (tea makers) are common sights on the streets of Delhi where they serve tea to passersby and local vendors. Its an integral part of life here especially in business matters: While shopping in the north you might be asked to sit and have tea which will be fetched from the nearest stall by a shop employee (or relative) and brought to you at no cost. Although chai generically means tea in much of India what you get will likely be a tiny glass of the milky spiced sweet drink thats more accurately called masala chai in which water black tea leaves (often Assam or Darjeeling) milk sugar and masala or spices are boiled together before straining. The pungency of the masala will vary by place but usually the mix counts cardamom cinnamon and black pepper among its ingredients. Chai is generally pretty safe to drink as the water is thoroughly boiled although its not a bad idea to request a plastic cup in case of suspect glasswashing.

Halwas among Indias favorite gheebased sweets come in many shapes flavors and textures the latter most simply broken down (in our minds) as hard or soft (see also: bedmialoo nagori halwa). Moong dal halwa made from ground and sweetened mung beans (a type of lentil) cooked in ghee falls in the soft category and though it hails from nearby Rajasthan its super popular for dessert here in Delhi especially in winter.

Mutton (usually goat in India) is perhaps most memorable cooked as a burra kebab: marinated skewered roasted and charred in the tandoor on the bone. When done well its tender spicy smoky meat an ideal component of a carnivorous Mughlai feast.

A mild curry in which meat (often yogurtmarinated) is cooked in a thick gravy of ground onions ginger garlic lots of whole and ground spices and ghee mutton (usually goat here) and chicken korma (also spelled qorma) are staples on any MuslimMughlai restaurant around town. Theyre best enjoyed with a fluffy bread like tandoori roti naan or sheermal a sweet leavened bread.

A definitive street chaat or snack of Delhi papri chaat is called so for the crispyfried round wafers (papri) that give it its addictive crunch. In the style of typical chaat the papri is accompanied by boiled potato chickpeas chaat masala a yogurt sauce and tamarind and coriander chutneys. You might also find it with pomegranate seeds and sev or fried gram flour. An absolutely perfect marriage of spicy sweet tangy soothing and crunchy this is our favorite of all chaats.

A panfried usually round unleavened flatbread made from wheat flour the Punjabi paratha (also spelled parantha) is often stuffed with vegetables and/or paneer and served with various accompaniments such as chutneys yogurt sauce pickled vegetables and spicy potato and veg sabzi. They were likely enjoyed by the Mughal royalty of yore as parathas cooked in ghee and made with extra ingredients were once reserved for special occasions or guests compared to other breads like the commoners roti paratha is rich and sumptuous. Its also versatile being popular for breakfast lunch or a latenight snack. When done well it is crisp soft and chewy all at once.